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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.